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How to Care for Nubuck Shoes: Nubuck Shoe Care and How to Clean Nubuck — Rules, Tips and Infographic

Care guide · Nubuck · N-SHOES

How to Care for Nubuck Shoes: Nubuck Shoe Care and How to Clean Nubuck — Rules, Tips and Infographic

Nubuck is a velvety leather that looks premium and holds its shape, but it does not forgive water, salt or stiff brushes. Here is how to clean nubuck without harming the nap, how to protect it and how to store it between seasons.

Fix a stainNubuck models
2 coatsprotector before first wear
2–3 weeksprotection renewal
+15…+25 °Cstorage temperature
up to 24 hdrying after rain

How to clean nubuck: pick the mark

Always test a product on a hidden spot first. Clean nubuck only when dry.

Daily

Dust

You need

soft brush or flannel

What to do

  1. Wait until the shoes are dry.
  2. Brush lightly in one direction with a soft brush.
  3. Clean creases and seams with a narrow brush.

Do not: Do not use a metal or stiff brush: nubuck's short nap wears smooth easily.

Infographic: how to care for nubuck shoes

Four stages that keep the velvety surface intact.

  1. Protectbefore first wearWater-repellent protector in 2 thin coats with a pause.
  2. Daily cleanafter each wearDry soft brush, eraser on scuffs, paper inside.
  3. Deep cleanas neededNubuck foam, a sponge, drying at room temperature.
  4. Restoreonce a seasonMatching dye spray, steam for the nap, fresh protector.

Do

  • Clean only when dry
  • Use products labelled for nubuck
  • Dry with paper stuffing
  • Store in a cotton bag

Don't

  • Wash or scrub with a wet brush
  • Smooth-leather cream
  • Oils on regular nubuck
  • Plastic bags

Nubuck, suede or oiled nubuck

MaterialSurfaceClean withProtect with
Nubuckgrain side, short velvety napsoft rubber, crepe, flanneloil-free protector
Suedeflesh side, longer soft naprubber, crepesuede protector
Oiled nubuckoil and wax impregnated, darkens when flexedsoft brush, damp clothwax or oiled-nubuck care

Nubuck seasonal calendar

AutumnProtector every 2–3 weeks, dry with paper after rain, mud only once dry.
WinterRemove salt the same day, protect more often, foam for deep cleaning.
SpringDeep clean after winter, dye spray on faded areas.
SummerBrush off dust, protect from sun and sweat, store at +15…+25 °C.

Home remedies: what works and what harms

We checked popular methods, including those from old articles.

  • WorksPlain white eraserLifts dry marks and scuffs. Rub lightly; no dyes.
  • WorksCornstarch for greaseDraws oil out of the nap. Leave overnight, then brush out.
  • CarefulSteam from a kettleLifts the nap in a few seconds at a distance. Long steaming soaks the leather.
  • CarefulClothes brushFine if the bristles are soft. Stiff ones polish the nap to a shine.
  • Skip itWashing with ammoniaHarsh on leather and dye, may leave marks. Use nubuck foam instead.
  • Skip itSmooth-leather creamGlues the nap and leaves a greasy shine that is hard to remove.
  • Skip itDrying on a radiatorNubuck shrinks, stiffens and may crack.

Nubuck models in stock

Models: 10

Full catalogue

Prices and availability as of publication.

Nubuck: encyclopedic overview

Definition

Nubuck is chrome-tanned natural leather whose grain side is buffed with abrasives to a short, even nap. It resembles velvet and looks similar to suede, but it is denser and stronger because it keeps the top layer of the hide. It is most often made from cattle hides.

Etymology

The name is English; the most common explanation is «new buck», meaning new buckskin: buffed cattle leather imitated soft deerskin. In the 20th century nubuck became a classic material for boots, sneakers and moccasins.

Production and types

After tanning and through-dyeing, the grain surface is buffed with fine abrasives. Oiled nubuck is additionally impregnated with oils and wax: it resists water better and darkens when flexed. Faux nubuck is a textile or polymer with a similar texture.

Care principles

Nubuck is cleaned only when dry, with soft rubber or crepe brushes or flannel. Oil-free water-repellent protectors are used for protection and dye sprays for colour. Regular smooth-leather cream is unsuitable because it glues the nap.

Storage

Before storage the pair is cleaned, dried at room temperature and treated with protector. Shoes go into cotton bags or cardboard boxes with shoe trees or paper and are kept at +15…+25 °C away from radiators. Plastic traps moisture and can cause mould.

Questions and answers

How is nubuck different from suede?

Nubuck is buffed on the grain side, so the nap is short and the material denser. Suede comes from the flesh side, with a longer, softer nap.

Can nubuck shoes be washed?

No. Water and detergents shrink the leather and leave marks. For a deep clean use nubuck foam and a sponge.

How often should I apply protector?

Two coats before the first wear, then every 2–3 weeks in the rainy season, more often in winter and after every deep clean.

How do I restore nubuck colour?

With a colour-matched nubuck dye spray: on a clean dry pair, a thin coat from 20–30 cm, then brush the nap.

Can I wear nubuck in winter?

Yes, especially insulated pairs, with regular protector and salt removed the same day.

Nubuck that looks new

Choose a nubuck pair in stock and bookmark this guide.

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